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On Fifth and Seventh Avenue, Park Slope Is Where Proven Chefs Go Next

On Fifth and Seventh Avenue, Park Slope Is Where Proven Chefs Go Next

Walk down Seventh Avenue past 20th Street this month and you will pass a windowed corner bar with warm light spilling onto the sidewalk, in a space that used to be Brooklyn Pub. A few blocks north, the old Bar Vinazio storefront now smells like wood smoke and semolina. Neither of these places needed to open. That is the detail worth sitting with before anything else.

Both belong to chefs who had already made their names somewhere else. Jay Kumar didn't need a second restaurant. His first one, Lore, was named Best Restaurant in Brooklyn by the NYC Hospitality Alliance and holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Ben Wexler-Waite didn't need a second restaurant either. His pizzeria on Peaks Island, Maine, has people who go out of their way for it every summer. Both of them chose this same stretch of Park Slope for what comes next, and they are not alone.

The Corridor, Not the Neighborhood

The easy version of this story is "Park Slope is getting new restaurants," which is true of every neighborhood in Brooklyn in any given year and tells a resident nothing they didn't already suspect. The specific version, the one that actually explains what's happening on your own block, is narrower: within roughly the past year, a cluster of chefs who already had something to prove elsewhere have chosen Fifth and Seventh Avenues, specifically, to open their next thing. Not Court Street. Not Franklin Avenue. These two parallel spines running the length of Park Slope.

Kumar's Folk took over the former Brooklyn Pub space at 689 Sixth Avenue, at the corner of 20th Street, a roughly 1,000-square-foot room with a windowed bar designed by his wife, Daria, in the same warm, textured style as Lore. The drinks run $14 to $18. Jay Kumar described the goal simply:

"It will make you feel at home."

That is a modest ambition for someone who already holds a Bib Gourmand. It is also exactly the kind of restaurant a neighborhood gets when the person opening it already lives there and has nothing left to prove to a critic, only to a regular.

A Test Kitchen With a Michelin Star Already Attached

The clearest example of what makes this wave different from an ordinary restaurant opening is Vato, at 226 Seventh Avenue. The team behind it built its reputation at Corima, the Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Fidel Caballero developed the sourdough flour tortillas that became a cult item on their own. Rather than simply cloning that success, Caballero and his partner, Sofia Ostos, split Vato's day in two. Mornings and afternoons, it runs as a counter-service spot selling Chihuahuan-style burritos, pastry chef Erick Rocha's Mexican-influenced pastries, and those same tortillas by the dozen for people to take home. In the evening, the same room becomes a sit-down restaurant built around Caballero's years cooking in the Basque Country, with a natural wine list from wine director Mariano Garay.

That split format is a tell. It is what a chef designs when they are confident enough in the neighborhood to bet on it twice in one building, once for the daytime regular grabbing burritos before work, and once for the evening diner willing to sit for a wine-paired meal. A newer, untested operator does not usually build in that kind of redundancy. A chef with a Michelin star already on the wall somewhere else does.

The Chef Who Left Home to Come Home

Ben Wexler-Waite grew up in Park Slope. His restaurant, il Leone, has spent the last five summers as a seasonal outdoor pizzeria on Peaks Island in Maine, serving naturally leavened sourdough pies to people willing to make the trip, including a signature pie topped with wood-fired Maine lobster. When he decided il Leone needed a year-round home, he shut the Maine location down a week early to get a head start on opening in the old Bar Vinazio space at 158 Seventh Avenue, with an open kitchen and a large backyard.

That is not the behavior of someone treating Park Slope as a fallback option because Manhattan rents were too high. It is the behavior of someone who already lives a few blocks away and picked the neighborhood he knows over anywhere else in the city he could have chosen instead.

Here is the corridor, as it stands right now:

  • Vato – 226 Seventh Avenue, from the Michelin-starred Corima team, daytime counter service and evening sit-down
  • Andamiro – 276 Fifth Avenue, between First Street and Garfield Place, Suho Lee's gukbap-centered Korean restaurant, open for lunch Wednesday through Sunday and dinner through the week
  • il Leone – 158 Seventh Avenue, Ben Wexler-Waite's year-round version of his Peaks Island pizzeria
  • Folk – 689 Sixth Avenue at 20th Street, Jay Kumar's cocktail bar from the team behind Lore
  • Thursday Bread Coffee – 140 Fifth Avenue, a Swedish bakery and Nordic-inspired coffee shop

Andamiro deserves its own mention. Suho Lee moved to Downtown Brooklyn in 2013 and spent years frustrated that gukbap, a bowl of soup and rice that is everywhere in Korea, was so hard to find done well in New York. He opened his restaurant on Fifth Avenue to fix that, and Brooklyn Magazine called the dish one of the best it ate all year. Lee wasn't chasing a trend or an underserved zip code. He had one dish he believed in and picked this specific block of Fifth Avenue to make his case.

The Wave Didn't Stop in March

None of this was a single season's coincidence that has already faded. As of this month, the pattern is still adding names. Mazi, a Greek restaurant, and Badshah Social, an Indian restaurant from a chef who previously ran a restaurant of the same name in Hell's Kitchen, both opened in Park Slope within the last several days, according to The Infatuation's restaurant openings guide. So did Mash Inn, a beer bar from the team behind Gold Star Beer Counter in Prospect Heights, tucked into a former laundromat. None of these three needed Park Slope specifically the way Vato or il Leone did. But their arrival in the same window confirms the corridor didn't cool off after its initial burst of attention last winter and spring. It kept pulling in operators who had other options and chose this stretch anyway.

What It Means to Already Live Here

None of this changes what Park Slope is. The brownstones on the side streets are the same brownstones. Prospect Park is still the park. What has changed, quietly, over the past year, is the specific texture of the two commercial avenues that cut through the neighborhood. The block you walk to grab dinner on a Tuesday is the same block Brooklyn Magazine went out of its way to review this year. The bar on the corner used to be a pub with a rotating beer list, and now it's a cocktail room designed by the wife of a Bib Gourmand chef, built to feel like someone's living room.

For a longtime resident, that's not a reason to do anything differently. It's a reason to notice something you might have walked past without registering: the density of proven, decorated culinary talent choosing to test its next chapter here rather than in Manhattan or a flashier part of Brooklyn is not typical, and it is not something every neighborhood in this city can claim right now.

If you're the kind of person who tracks this sort of thing because you're curious about where your neighborhood is headed, or because you're weighing whether now is the moment to make a move of your own, MINSKY | ABRISHAMI has been watching Park Slope's Fifth and Seventh Avenue corridors as closely as we watch the housing stock around them. We're always happy to talk through what a shift like this actually means, whether that conversation is about your next dinner reservation or your home's current value.

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